If you are a relatively new watch enthusiast, you may not be aware of Breguet’s contributions to the watch industry.
Breguet – One of the Oldest Luxury Watchmakers
What started as a promise of accuracy more than 220 years ago, remains one of the most prominent names in the world of horology. The Swiss watchmaking brand is one of the oldest surviving luxury watchmaking brands in the world. In fact it can singlehandedly be credited for quite a few of the revolutionary innovations in the watch industry.
Here we trace the timeline of Breguet’s contributions to the watch industry as well as other prominent accomplishments of the man dubbed as the best watchmaker of his time.
1780 – The Perpétuelle
The Perpétuelle is the first watch that Abraham-Louis Breguet ever produced after years of studying horology. The watch solved one of the most important challenges of the time as it did not need to be winded to keep it going.
The Perpétuelle successfully used an oscillating platinum weight mechanism for reliable results. The Duke of Orleans bought the first watch and so began Breguet’s rise to fame among royals and nobles of the time.
1783 – The Most Complicated Pocket Watch Ever
Marie Antoinette was an admirer of Breguet watches and asked him to produce the most complicated watch ever. Her instructions stated that she wanted the watch to have every complication and feature possible. Breguet was not given a budget or time constraints and thus, he took 44 years to create the masterpiece.
The self-winding watch featured:
- A perpetual calendar
- A minute repeater
- An independent, on-command seconds hand
- A small sweeps seconds hand
- A metallic thermometer
- Gold overcoil
- Shock proofing
- And a lever escapement
However, Marie Antoinette was beheaded before Breguet finished the watch. In fact, he too passed away leaving his son in charge of completing the task in 1823. The watch is currently on display at the Seiko Museum.
1783 – Minute Repeater Gong
Minute repeater gongs are mechanical complications that ring out the time on demand. While Breguet was not the first to create a minute repeater gong, he invented a new system that was lighter and more compact. Breguet attached a gong to a spring that created a lower and sweeter sound than that produced by the heavy bulky mechanism with actual bells used previously.
1790 – Para Chute
Breguet also invented a shock absorption mechanism for all clumsy watch owners. He attached all delicate components of the watch to a spring so that they could move safely without getting damaged in case of a fall. Breguet even demonstrated the quality and reliability of his invention at a party by throwing his watch on the ground. He then passed it around to the attendees so they could see for themselves that the watch was still functional.
1795 – The Tourbillon
Breguet invented the Tourbillon in 1795 and patented the mechanism in 1801. He was worried about the effect of gravity on the horological movements and its resultant effect on the accuracy of the mechanics. As a solution, Breguet encapsulated the parts most susceptible to the effects of gravity, including the springs and balance, escape wheel and the lever on a rotating wheel. The rotation ensured that the parts were never in one place long enough for gravity to affect them.
The regular movement also reduces the margin of error as the movement of each part cancels out that of the other. The constant rotation also ensures the parts are constantly lubricated.
1799 – The Tact Watch
Breguet released the tact watch in 1799. The watch’s design allows the wearer to tell the time by touch eliminating the need the look at the watch. Mrs. Bonaparte, the first empress of France bought the watch and used it regularly. The simple touch mechanism allowed her to read the time and politely excuse herself during gatherings. Not to mention that the watch was exquisite featuring diamond markers and many other embellishments.
1810 – The Wristwatch
Though many might dispute the claim that Breguet invented the first wristwatch, official records prove otherwise. In 1810, the Queen of Naples commissioned Breguet to make a watch that could be worn on the wrist, and he delivered. It is said the watch featured an oval shaped dial and the strap was made of hair and gold threads.
Some More of Breguet’s Contributions to the Watch Industry
Other notable inventions by Breguet include the perpetual calendar, chronograph, equation of time, Breguet balance spring, the magnetic pivot, the marine chronometer and more. To say that he was a revolutionary inventor would be an understatement. You can find more details about their inventions on their website.
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